Everest, the First Ascent

Everest, the First Ascent

How A Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain

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Baker & Taylor
Examines the life of British physician Griffith Pugh who researched the physiological aspects of mountaineering and whose findings were put into practical use on Hillary and Norgay's 1953 expedition to Mt. Everest's summit.

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Winner:
Banff Award for Mountain and Wilderness Literature
The British Sportsbook Award for Outstanding General Sports Writing
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Finalist for the HW Fisher Biographer's Prize
Harriet Tuckey’s book is both the history of what went into the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest in 1953 and a biography of her father, Dr Griffith Pugh, whose role was absolutely pivotal, yet mostly untold. As the expedition’s physiological consultant, Pugh designed almost every aspect of the survival strategy for the expedition, the acclimatization program, the oxygen- and fluid-intake regime, the diet, the clothing and the high altitude boots. Without him and his work, the ascent of Everest would have been impossible.

Globe Fearon Co

Winner:
Banff Award for Mountain and Wilderness Literature
The British Sportsbook Award for Outstanding General Sports Writing
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Finalist for the HW Fisher Biographer's Prize

Everest was not conquered by force of will alone. It required immense planning, research, and preparation. Dr. Griffith Pugh’s role in the first successful ascent of Everest in 1953 by Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay was absolutely pivotal, yet this story has until now remained untold. As the expedition’s physiological consultant, Pugh designed almost every aspect of the survival strategy for the expedition, the acclimatisation programme, the oxygen- and fluid-intake regime, the diet, the clothing and the high altitude boots. A spirit of gentleman-amateurism had prevailed previously and this new scientific professionalism ensured the success of the expedition and opened the way for a stunning stream of mountaineering successes.

Within five years climbers had scaled nearly all of the world’s highest peaks in relative safety. Dr. Pugh became known as one of the fathers of altitude medicine, saving the lives of several members of Hillary’s expedition to Mount Makalu, and pioneering safety techniques for mountaineers and hill walkers.

This is also the story of Griffith Pugh, the man, a troubled and eccentric person who had difficulties in sustaining personal relationships in both his personal and professional lives. His daughter and author of this biography, Harriet Tuckey, did not discover the extent of her father’s role in the success of the climb until he was honored late in life at the Royal Geographical Society. His story shines a necessary and fascinating light on one of mankind's greatest achievments.



Winner:
Banff Award for Mountain and Wilderness Literature
The British Sportsbook Award for Outstanding General Sports Writing
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Finalist for the HW Fisher Biographer's Prize
Harriet Tuckey’s book is both the history of what went into the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest in 1953 and a biography of her father, Dr Griffith Pugh, whose role was absolutely pivotal, yet mostly untold. As the expedition’s physiological consultant, Pugh designed almost every aspect of the survival strategy for the expedition, the acclimatization program, the oxygen- and fluid-intake regime, the diet, the clothing and the high altitude boots. Without him and his work, the ascent of Everest would have been impossible.

ISBN: 9780762791927
0762791926
Branch Call Number: 796.522 PUGH TUCKE
Characteristics: xxi, 402 pages, 8 unnumbered pages of plates : illustrations, maps ; 24 cm

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